This drink is created by renowned cocktail consultant Ryan Margarian. He is the co founder of Aviation Gin in Portland, a craft gin that comes in a beautiful art deco style bottle. It's a nice change up from a standard Manhattan, though it's a bit more involved.
2 ounces añejo tequila
1/2 ounce sweet vermouth
1/4 ounce Licor 43
Dash of Angostura bitters
Dash of orange bitters
1 fresh cherry
As all of these ingredients are transparent, this is one to stir with ice and then strain. I used mole bitters rather than the angostura, which I thought worked quite well with the Spanish/Mexican vibe of this cocktail. Margarian soaks a fresh cherry in tequila, then wraps it in mole salami. I used thinly sliced chorizo around Amarena cocktail cherries.
A decent summer cocktail with savory aspects.
Wednesday, July 24, 2013
Wednesday, July 17, 2013
If By Whiskey
I have been reading Bourbon, Straight: The Uncut and Unfiltered Story of American Whiskey, by Chuck Cowdery. Cowdery, a Kentucky bourbon insider, has a blog that's great if you really want to get more in depth in the bourbon world. In the book, he writes about Judge Noah "Soggy" Sweat, who served on the Mississippi state legislature in the late 1940s. Mississippi was the last state to repeal Prohibition, and Judge Sweat gave this speech to the legislature, addressing the issue head on. Well, sort of head on...
"My friends, I had not intended to discuss this controversial subject at this particular time. However, I want you to know that I do not shun controversy. On the contrary, I will take a stand on any issue at any time, regardless of how fraught with controversy it might be. You have asked me how I feel about whiskey. All right, here is how I feel about whiskey:
If when you say whiskey you mean the devil's brew, the poison scourge, the bloody monster, that defiles innocence, dethrones reason, destroys the home, creates misery and poverty, yea, literally takes the bread from the mouths of little children; if you mean the evil drink that topples the Christian man and woman from the pinnacle of righteous, gracious living into the bottomless pit of degradation, and despair, and shame and helplessness, and hopelessness, then certainly I am against it.
But, if when you say whiskey you mean the oil of conversation, the philosophic wine, the ale that is consumed when good fellows get together, that puts a song in their hearts and laughter on their lips, and the warm glow of contentment in their eyes; if you mean Christmas cheer; if you mean the stimulating drink that puts the spring in the old gentleman's step on a frosty, crispy morning; if you mean the drink which enables a man to magnify his joy, and his happiness, and to forget, if only for a little while, life's great tragedies, and heartaches, and sorrows; if you mean that drink, the sale of which pours into our treasuries untold millions of dollars, which are used to provide tender care for our little crippled children, our blind, our deaf, our dumb, our pitiful aged and infirm; to build highways and hospitals and schools, then certainly I am for it.
This is my stand. I will not retreat from it. I will not compromise." Apparently he got rousing ovations from both sides of the fence.
"My friends, I had not intended to discuss this controversial subject at this particular time. However, I want you to know that I do not shun controversy. On the contrary, I will take a stand on any issue at any time, regardless of how fraught with controversy it might be. You have asked me how I feel about whiskey. All right, here is how I feel about whiskey:
If when you say whiskey you mean the devil's brew, the poison scourge, the bloody monster, that defiles innocence, dethrones reason, destroys the home, creates misery and poverty, yea, literally takes the bread from the mouths of little children; if you mean the evil drink that topples the Christian man and woman from the pinnacle of righteous, gracious living into the bottomless pit of degradation, and despair, and shame and helplessness, and hopelessness, then certainly I am against it.
But, if when you say whiskey you mean the oil of conversation, the philosophic wine, the ale that is consumed when good fellows get together, that puts a song in their hearts and laughter on their lips, and the warm glow of contentment in their eyes; if you mean Christmas cheer; if you mean the stimulating drink that puts the spring in the old gentleman's step on a frosty, crispy morning; if you mean the drink which enables a man to magnify his joy, and his happiness, and to forget, if only for a little while, life's great tragedies, and heartaches, and sorrows; if you mean that drink, the sale of which pours into our treasuries untold millions of dollars, which are used to provide tender care for our little crippled children, our blind, our deaf, our dumb, our pitiful aged and infirm; to build highways and hospitals and schools, then certainly I am for it.
This is my stand. I will not retreat from it. I will not compromise." Apparently he got rousing ovations from both sides of the fence.
Friday, May 17, 2013
Favorite Philly Eats
I know as soon as I publish this I'll remember something I left out. But I thought I'd take a crack at it anyhow. Here are my top ten favorite places to eat in Philadelphia, in ascending order. There is not necessarily a distinction between highbrow and lowbrow, just taste.
11. Adobe Cafe-I can't legitimately put Adobe in my top ten, but this 11th spot is a shout out to my favorite hole in the wall watering hole. In a building that used to be an Italian night club in it's heyday, Adobe offers low key Tex Mex. The wings are great, the bartenders are friendly. There's always a place for you at Adobe. http://www.adobecafephilly.com/
10. Los Gallos Tacos-This hole in the wall South Philly gem that serves double duty as a Mexican grocer is authentic mexican for cheap. The tacos pastor (pork with pineapple) are awesome, as is the squash blossom quesadilla. This food blows away Xochitl, Cantina, Distrito, El Rey, and El Vez, in my opinion. None of those are bad options, but none come close to cracking my top ten. http://losgallosphilly.com/
9. Han Dynasty-"What do you call a restaurant with American waiters and Mexican chefs? PF Changs!"-Chef Han. Han serves up authentic Schezuan cuisine. It's hot. Chili oil and black pepper, so overpowering, yet if you've eaten the Mapo Tofu or Kung Pao chicken with peanuts, you know that it's oh so addictive. For a fun night, make a reservation for one of his 2x a month tastings, and try 20 menu items for about $25 bucks and byo, and be entertained by Han's humor. But the takeout is just as good any other night. http://handynasty.net/
8. Stateside-Just got the number one spot on the Philly mag list. It doesn't hit my top spot, even though it's within walking distance of my house, but Stateside is killer. The cocktails are expertly prepared and under 10 bucks (try the clover club if you aren't afraid of raw egg), all the food and drinks are U.S. sourced (that means great bourbon list), and the steak tartare is phenomenol. The menu changes seasonally of course. The bar features giant open windows which overlook the fountain on East Passyunk. http://statesidephilly.com/
7. Tinto-This is the only Jose Garces entry on my list. I am partial to Northern Spanish cuisine simply because I've been to the Basque country, where the bar snacks are called pintxos instead of tapas (okay I really don't know all that much about it but it tastes damn good). I mimicked Garces's serrano ham wrapped duck confit with la peral blue cheese and a cherry for my father in law's 60th birthday feast. Good food, good beer and wine, great atmosphere. Right next to Garces's Village Whisky. http://www.tintorestaurant.com/
6. Osteria-This Marc Vetri spot on North Broad St. makes the best pizza in the whole city, I had the one with octopus. The brick oven crisps the pizza so nicely. Great Italian from one of the U.S.'s best Italian chefs. http://www.osteriaphilly.com/
5. Penang-My wife grew up in Southeast Asia, and this Malaysian spot in Chinatown is the closest thing to comfort food she can get. The roti canai is a fried pancake that you dip in curry sauce, a must have. Beef rendang, coconut rice, beef chow fun, mee siam. Cheap prices, great service, open kitchen with flames dancing around. Drink a Tiger beer from Singapore to wash it all down. http://penangusa.com/backup/archive082205/location_philly.html
4. Le Virtu-This Abruzze Italian restaurant is literally around the corner from my house. It's fantastic. The housemade charcuterie plate is a great place to start. Wine on tap is fun. Nice little beer list with Ommegang Hennepin Saison as a staple. The pastas are out of this world, try the one with rabbit. I had some dish that was basically a bowl of assorted pig meat that was incredible. During Beer Week they do a cool grilling event in their lawn area that's pay as you go. http://www.levirtu.com/
3. Zahav-Michael Solomonov's Israeli restaurant features a great atmosphere, good cocktails, great hummus, and fun tasting menu. If Zahav is the jewel of Old City, then the pomegranate braised lamb shoulder is the jewel of Zahav. To me this restaurant represents why the Philly dining scene can match up with anyone. It's unique, special, and delicious. http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/
If you have a half day to kill try Solomonov's Federal Donuts--you have to get there early to reserve some fried chicken.
2. South Philadelphia Taproom-Scott Schroeder's bar menu has a way of making the simplest foods excellent. The North Carolina BBQ chicken sandwich is my favorite item, when available, and I'd rarely choose chicken over beef or seafood. Grilled Pocono trout is a great special, as is the fried chicken. I like the burger even though it's grass fed beef. The eggplant parm is amazing. I could go on and on. There special events are so much fun, none more fun than the Wheaties/Wheat Beer fest each spring. (It's tomorrow!) For Beer week 2011 they had a pig roast, a plate of pig and a beer for 9 bucks, with asian inspired cole slaw on the side. Can't beat it. The beer list is always solid, both draft and bottles. They have the largest Founders account outside of Michigan, so count on some Kentucky Breakfast Stout and other rare brews popping up now and then. And if nothing jumps out at you, you could do worse than a $3 Kenzinger, always available. This is the quintessential neighborhood bar, elevated. If Schroeder wanted to do fine dining I feel he could do any cuisine he wanted and succeed. Thankfully for us he seems content to make pig head cheese tacos for a buck and a half a pop (as seen on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives). http://www.southphiladelphiataproom.com/
1. Fond-Fond means "pan scrapings." Fond is my favorite restaurant in any city. The food is incredible. The chef was trained at Le Bec Fin, as was his wife, the pastry chef, who has her own storefront, Belle Cakery, just down the street. Pan seared skate wing over brown butter risotto, pork belly with Okinawan sweet potatoes, house made sambuca. They just moved to a new location and now have a bar, but you can still byo for free in the week or pay a corkage fee on weekends. This is a special occasion restaurant. It is one of a ton of BYOBs in Philly (Little Fish, Farm and Fisherman, Will, Cochon) but what sets it apart from these, as well as the Garces and Starr places, is the service. Attentive, helpful, and out of their way to make you feel comfortable. One time a server made a minor mistake at our table and the person running the front of the house practically ran over to correct it. http://fondphilly.com/
Runners Up: Royal Tavern, Tiffin, Brauhaus Schmitz, Green Eggs Cafe, Talula's Garden, Pho Saigon, John's Roast Pork, Farm and Fisherman, Slice, Mazza, Bibou
11. Adobe Cafe-I can't legitimately put Adobe in my top ten, but this 11th spot is a shout out to my favorite hole in the wall watering hole. In a building that used to be an Italian night club in it's heyday, Adobe offers low key Tex Mex. The wings are great, the bartenders are friendly. There's always a place for you at Adobe. http://www.adobecafephilly.com/
10. Los Gallos Tacos-This hole in the wall South Philly gem that serves double duty as a Mexican grocer is authentic mexican for cheap. The tacos pastor (pork with pineapple) are awesome, as is the squash blossom quesadilla. This food blows away Xochitl, Cantina, Distrito, El Rey, and El Vez, in my opinion. None of those are bad options, but none come close to cracking my top ten. http://losgallosphilly.com/
9. Han Dynasty-"What do you call a restaurant with American waiters and Mexican chefs? PF Changs!"-Chef Han. Han serves up authentic Schezuan cuisine. It's hot. Chili oil and black pepper, so overpowering, yet if you've eaten the Mapo Tofu or Kung Pao chicken with peanuts, you know that it's oh so addictive. For a fun night, make a reservation for one of his 2x a month tastings, and try 20 menu items for about $25 bucks and byo, and be entertained by Han's humor. But the takeout is just as good any other night. http://handynasty.net/
8. Stateside-Just got the number one spot on the Philly mag list. It doesn't hit my top spot, even though it's within walking distance of my house, but Stateside is killer. The cocktails are expertly prepared and under 10 bucks (try the clover club if you aren't afraid of raw egg), all the food and drinks are U.S. sourced (that means great bourbon list), and the steak tartare is phenomenol. The menu changes seasonally of course. The bar features giant open windows which overlook the fountain on East Passyunk. http://statesidephilly.com/
7. Tinto-This is the only Jose Garces entry on my list. I am partial to Northern Spanish cuisine simply because I've been to the Basque country, where the bar snacks are called pintxos instead of tapas (okay I really don't know all that much about it but it tastes damn good). I mimicked Garces's serrano ham wrapped duck confit with la peral blue cheese and a cherry for my father in law's 60th birthday feast. Good food, good beer and wine, great atmosphere. Right next to Garces's Village Whisky. http://www.tintorestaurant.com/
6. Osteria-This Marc Vetri spot on North Broad St. makes the best pizza in the whole city, I had the one with octopus. The brick oven crisps the pizza so nicely. Great Italian from one of the U.S.'s best Italian chefs. http://www.osteriaphilly.com/
5. Penang-My wife grew up in Southeast Asia, and this Malaysian spot in Chinatown is the closest thing to comfort food she can get. The roti canai is a fried pancake that you dip in curry sauce, a must have. Beef rendang, coconut rice, beef chow fun, mee siam. Cheap prices, great service, open kitchen with flames dancing around. Drink a Tiger beer from Singapore to wash it all down. http://penangusa.com/backup/archive082205/location_philly.html
4. Le Virtu-This Abruzze Italian restaurant is literally around the corner from my house. It's fantastic. The housemade charcuterie plate is a great place to start. Wine on tap is fun. Nice little beer list with Ommegang Hennepin Saison as a staple. The pastas are out of this world, try the one with rabbit. I had some dish that was basically a bowl of assorted pig meat that was incredible. During Beer Week they do a cool grilling event in their lawn area that's pay as you go. http://www.levirtu.com/
3. Zahav-Michael Solomonov's Israeli restaurant features a great atmosphere, good cocktails, great hummus, and fun tasting menu. If Zahav is the jewel of Old City, then the pomegranate braised lamb shoulder is the jewel of Zahav. To me this restaurant represents why the Philly dining scene can match up with anyone. It's unique, special, and delicious. http://www.zahavrestaurant.com/
If you have a half day to kill try Solomonov's Federal Donuts--you have to get there early to reserve some fried chicken.
2. South Philadelphia Taproom-Scott Schroeder's bar menu has a way of making the simplest foods excellent. The North Carolina BBQ chicken sandwich is my favorite item, when available, and I'd rarely choose chicken over beef or seafood. Grilled Pocono trout is a great special, as is the fried chicken. I like the burger even though it's grass fed beef. The eggplant parm is amazing. I could go on and on. There special events are so much fun, none more fun than the Wheaties/Wheat Beer fest each spring. (It's tomorrow!) For Beer week 2011 they had a pig roast, a plate of pig and a beer for 9 bucks, with asian inspired cole slaw on the side. Can't beat it. The beer list is always solid, both draft and bottles. They have the largest Founders account outside of Michigan, so count on some Kentucky Breakfast Stout and other rare brews popping up now and then. And if nothing jumps out at you, you could do worse than a $3 Kenzinger, always available. This is the quintessential neighborhood bar, elevated. If Schroeder wanted to do fine dining I feel he could do any cuisine he wanted and succeed. Thankfully for us he seems content to make pig head cheese tacos for a buck and a half a pop (as seen on Diners, Drive Ins, and Dives). http://www.southphiladelphiataproom.com/
1. Fond-Fond means "pan scrapings." Fond is my favorite restaurant in any city. The food is incredible. The chef was trained at Le Bec Fin, as was his wife, the pastry chef, who has her own storefront, Belle Cakery, just down the street. Pan seared skate wing over brown butter risotto, pork belly with Okinawan sweet potatoes, house made sambuca. They just moved to a new location and now have a bar, but you can still byo for free in the week or pay a corkage fee on weekends. This is a special occasion restaurant. It is one of a ton of BYOBs in Philly (Little Fish, Farm and Fisherman, Will, Cochon) but what sets it apart from these, as well as the Garces and Starr places, is the service. Attentive, helpful, and out of their way to make you feel comfortable. One time a server made a minor mistake at our table and the person running the front of the house practically ran over to correct it. http://fondphilly.com/
Runners Up: Royal Tavern, Tiffin, Brauhaus Schmitz, Green Eggs Cafe, Talula's Garden, Pho Saigon, John's Roast Pork, Farm and Fisherman, Slice, Mazza, Bibou
Friday, April 12, 2013
Pappy V All
When I was a kid, a few friends of mine had a running joke called, “I’ll take you both on in Madden.” The joke was that in Madden video games, it was much easier to win the game as a single player controlling the whole team rather than trying to coordinate complicated passing plays. But the concept of taking on more than your fair share is always desirable if you are a really a competitor, like trying to win a pickup basketball game 2 on 3. Pappy Van Winkle may be shorthanded, but he always wins. Okay, I’m not sure how well that analogy worked, but I’ve been doing a lot of thinking about Pappy Van Winkle 15, my favorite all time whisky. He’s too intimidating to do a review on. But I do want to share some thoughts about him, and his place relative to my whisky journey. The Van Winkle line has everything, flavor, richness, complexity, cache, uniqueness, everything except for availability. Julian Van Winkle has said, or at least implied, that the mystique of the brand is protected by making it a bit hard to get, but I do think it’s gone beyond what their business model predicted. Just a couple of years ago, you would see some Van Winkle sitting on shelves now and then, and the 15 year sold for about $60. Now, it is sold before it even reaches the sales floor (I bought my last bottle for $120 bucks, limit one per customer, and the whisky manager went into the back to get it. Mind you, the warehouse that stored the Van Winkles was damaged by Hurricane Sandy; we were lucky to get any in this area at all). I am hoping that the new ebay policy shrinks the black market markups on it a bit, and therefore increases its availability). I have a small stash of some Van Winkle bourbons which I drink on special occasions. And I do share with friends, because that’s what bourbon lovers do. All this to say, despite Pappy’s greatness, there are so many great whiskies out there, of all styles and at all price points. It’s a practically limitless world of flavors and experiences. It’s silly to get hung up on one specific bottling. I still consider it my “high water mark,” and will work hard to get a bottle every time it’s released, but I won’t lose any more sleep over it. Life’s too short and the whisky world is too grand.
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